Adventures in Hangul

Since making the conscious decision to stay in Korea until my loans are paid off, I decided it would be in my best interest to learn Korean. I'm able to get by in normal situations that a foreigner would find themselves in, such as a restaurant, a taxi, asking directions, or other such things. But I can't carry on even a simple conversation in a social situation with someone about the weather, movies, interests, family, or anything else for that matter. And since my circle of friends is slowly growing to include non-foreigners, I decided that I need to take an actual class that involves tests, homework, quizzes, and tuition. I have taken two "classes" already, but because of the level of informality, they both fell to the wayside.

You would think that Koreans would be rather gung-ho about foreigners learning their language. If you think this, you would be surprised at how difficult it is to find Korean lessons for foreigners. You would also be surprised at how many Koreans have looked at me in wonderment and asked why I wanted to learn Korean, since English is so widely spoken here.

Regardless, I was determined to take lessons. I asked around, searched on the internet, and made inquiries wherever I could. I took a level test at City Hall a few months ago, only to find out that the single beginner's class was offered from 4-6 pm on Wednesday afternoons. Not the most ideal time, seeing as how I teach until 3:30 every day and I can't leave work until 5:30. I suppose that's what comes from offering free classes.

Then I found out in September that the company I work for, YBM, offers 50% discounts to any employees. So of course I jumped on that chance. However, after much fuss and discussion with the office staff, I came to discover that the 50% discount is only valid after you've worked for YBM for three months. So I sat on my hands in anticipation of November 1st, when I could start. At least, I thought so. According to the head honchos, because my contract says I started August 3rd (the first Monday of August this year, and therefore the first working day of the month), I wouldn't have worked a full three months until November 3rd, which was too late. So, I resigned myself to wait another month. While waiting, I somehow managed to excite Chris, one of my co-workers, into wanting to take lessons as well.

The registration deadline is the 20th of the month before classes start, and I had been asking Miss Mia (the now vice-principal), if I had been signed up for the classes at least once a week since the beginning of November. She kept assuring me that she had told Aaron, the office manager, several times so she was sure I had been registered. I wasn't so sure, and on the 20th I went in to talk to him myself, something I'd been avoiding because his English is only slightly better than my Korean. Of course I hadn't been registered, and so we spent the next 20 minutes or so making sure that he signed Chris and I up for the classes that we wanted (MWF 6-7:50). I went back a few days later to check on the first day of classes, since the first of the month fell on a Tuesday I wasn't sure if the first class would be Monday or Wednesday. Aaron called the school, and confirmed that classes did indeed start on Wednesday the 2nd.

So, Wednesday, December 2nd finally arrived. I was incredibly excited. I had gone the day before, like the dutiful student I am, to find the correct building and make sure I knew where I was going so I wouldn't be late for the first class. (And yes, I did that every semester in college as well. Who wants to be late for the first class of the semester?? It does NOT give a good impression, and you never know what you're going to miss.) Chris and I even snuck out about 10 minutes early so we could try and catch a bus. We ended up taking a taxi after I realized that the only bus that went to the place we were going came every 14-19 minutes, and we only had a 30 minute window to get there.

So, wrapped in multiple layers against the winter chill, we arrived at the building and I confidently strode up to the second floor ahead of Chris, eagerly anticipating what I was sure was going to be an informative evening. I approached the desk, where a Korean woman was standing behind it helping another Korean who looked to be signing up for English classes, and stood ready to wait my turn. Once she had finished helping the Korean, she turned to help me, and our conversation went something like this:

"Yes, can I help you?" she said.

"Hi! We're signed up for a Korean class today that starts at 6 o'clock. This is our first time, so we're not sure where to go or what to do. We also haven't paid yet." I paused, indicating her cue to point me in the direction of my classroom, or look to a list and see how much I owed for my class.

"Oh. Uhhm, there's no classes today." Her brows furrowed a bit when she said this.

I was a bit thrown off by this response, but I continued in an upbeat note. "Oh, there must be some mistake. You see, we were told we had to sign up by the 20th in order to take classes. I work for YBM, and the guy from our office signed us up last month. We're taking the Monday Wednesday Friday class that starts at 6."

"No, there no classes today. The schedule changed, only Tuesday Thursday class." At this point she seemed to be a bit annoyed.

"Oh, well....um. I don't understand. We signed up for the Monday Wednesday Friday class. That's why we're here today."

"No, no class. It changed schedule. Class start yesterday. Look, only Tuesday Thursday schedule."

At this point she pulled out a schedule and pointed to the block for 6-7:50 pm that did indeed show Tuesday Thursday classes - right next to the Monday Wednesday Friday class. I attempted to point to the latter but to my dismay she pulled it away and tucked it under the counter as soon as I reached out a finger.

"But, there's a Monday Wednesday Friday class listed on there. I don't understand. I can't take a Tuesday Thursday class. That's why we signed up for Monday Wednesday Friday. Are you saying that there's no longer a class during that time, and the only night classes started yesterday?"

"Yes. Yesterday first class. The teachers ask the students what schedule they prefer, and sometimes they decide to change the schedule. Now only Tuesday Thursday." At this point she was starting to huff a little bit, and was definitely annoyed with us.

"But, this is supposed to be our first class. It's the beginner class. I don't understand how the professor could have asked the students if they wanted to change the schedule if we haven't started the class yet. And if they changed the schedule, why didn't they notify us?"

"No, no, no, no! I don't know! No class today! Only tomorrow." She was really getting annoyed with me now.

"Ok," I said, a smile still on my face, though decidedly less enthusiastically that it had been five minutes prior, "Forget about December, then. What about January? Will there be a Monday Wednesday Friday class in January that we can take?"

"I don't know! Schedule always changes! I don't know!"

At this point, two foreigners who were waiting behind us decided to put their two cents in. The girl waiting by the desk said "I've been waiting four months to take a class. Schedule changes happen all the time."

The guy standing off to the side added "Yeah, they change the schedule all the time, you just get used to it."

I didn't really respond to them, since I wasn't quite sure how to take that information. Especially since the fact that I was asking a receptionist to supply me with information that I thought would be readily available was apparently an offense to her good natured-ness and I had inadvertently insulted her by asking why the class I had signed up for had suddenly disappeared. So instead I turned back to the receptionist for one final attempt.

"Ok, so you're saying that I can't sign up for a class in January, because you don't know if there will be a class in January, and that the class I signed up for that was supposed to hold the first class tonight has been changed by the teacher because he asked the students and they preferred a Tuesday Thursday schedule, even though we haven't started the class yet?"

"No, no! No classes today!"

"Ok, thank you very much. Have a good night." And I left.



I ranted and raved a bit with Chris at dinner, and we both puzzed and puzzled till our puzzlers were sore, but couldn't figure out what had actually happened, or why they hadn't told us that the classes had been changed or canceled. I decided to go ask Aaron the next day.

I hunted Aaron down, and asked him to call the school and find out what had happened, since we hadn't been able to take the class. He called, and didn't seem to understand the problem because the school said there was a Monday Wednesday Friday class. At that point, I decided that Aaron was no longer a helpful avenue, and I needed to find a new route to obtain the information I was looking for.

After a conversation with the math teacher, Sarah K, about what had happened later that afternoon after school, she decided to call them for me. After a rather long conversation, of which I understood hardly any since it was conducted in Korean, I learned the following information:

• There is a MWF class.
• The MWF class had been canceled for December because of low registration - only two people had signed up.
• There is no cancellation notification policy.
• YBM teachers are not considered normal students.
  
• Non-YBM students sign up for classes first, and if there are any spots left, they are then opened to YBM staff.
  
• Therefore, if a class fills up, I can't register because other people come before me.
• Also, if I am the only one to sign up for the class, they will cancel the class, but will not tell me that it's canceled.
• It is up to the teacher to decide if they want to cancel the class based on the number of students registered. There is no minimum number.
  
• I have to wait until the last day possible to register.
• I then have to call a few days before the start of class to see if the class is scheduled to continue, or if it has been canceled.
  

So, I'm going to try again for January, and hope Chris and I aren't the only ones this time. Never give up, never surrender! I will learn Korean...

This just in...

It's SNOWING!!!

It's the first snowfall of the season! At least, it's the first time that it's snowed in Korea this year in a place that I've been. And it's blowing around like crazy and starting to stick already. I'm utterly thrilled, and can't wait to get out and go to a palace or temple and take pictures!

Now back to our regularly scheduled programming.



*edit* - according to blogger, this is my 100th post.

cool.

Kim Jong Il/Un

According to the Chosun Ilbo - one of the bigger South Korean newspapers, North Koreans are worried that Kim Jong Il's successor (Kim Jong Un) will be worse than his father. What worries me more is things like this picture:


Roughly translated, the banner says "Hail the sun of the 21st century, General Kim Jong Il".

*shiver*

Fall Foliage

This Saturday was my friend Jess' birthday. She's a very adventurous and active person, so for her birthday she wanted to go down to Naejangsan to go hiking in the mountains and look at the fall leaves. This weekend was the peak weekend in Naejangsan, so it was rather busy and we were only able to get the slow train there and back because the fast train was booked. Half of the group went down there Friday night, and the rest of us followed on the first train out on Saturday morning. We made it to the train station around noon, and after a little debate on whether or not we should ask for directions, found the bus to the mountain and hopped on.

The bus was overly crowded with ajumas in hiking gear, younger couples in matching winter outfits, and Korean tourists, as well as our group of foreigners. We got to what seemed like the area we were supposed to get off at, and everyone got off the bus. The traffic was frustratingly slow, but it was still moving faster than you can walk. But because my Korean was the best out of the people there (and mine is severely limited at best), we got off as well when we should have just stayed on. So we ended up walking several kilometers to get to the area that we were supposed to stay.

We made it to a rather busy intersection full of hikers, tour buses, traffic cops, and some of the fittest people over 60 I've ever seen. After trying to have a phone conversation with the Korean man who owned the minbak we were staying in, we were picked up in a car and driven about two blocks to the place we had booked the week before.


Generally, minbak means a home stay. So you are essentially staying in someone's spare room in their home, and meals are often included. However in the case of Minbak Row in Naejangsan, the street of minbaks was simply a collection of supposedly low-cost, low luxury places to sleep at night. Our particular two rooms were supposed to sleep 15 people, but the 12 of us were in rather close quarters. When we first arrived, there was some confusion as to whether we were even in the right place, as there were no bags in the room and half our group had come in the night before. It turned out that they had stayed in town on Friday night and left their bags at the police station so they could go hiking in the morning. So we dropped our bags in the minbak and went off in search of lunch.

We got about 200 feet from the minbak before we ran into a restaurant. This turned out to be the closest place to get food, and probably one of the more expensive Korean restaurants I've been to. We did, however, get to see a whole pig on a spit right by our table.


After getting lunch, we decided to try and find the rest of our friends. They said they were heading back from one of the temples on the mountain, and we should just walk towards the main entrance of the park and hopefully we'd catch them in passing.


The walk was long and crowded, but we did manage to see lots of fall colors along the way, and beautiful scenery was captured by careful camera framing. :)


We didn't see the other members of our group so much as hear them. Jess is loud at the best of times, and we could hear her talking long before we saw the rest of our group. They had been waiting by a rather beautiful tree so we could get the whole group photographed together. Of course we couldn't get a Korean to take a picture for us, so Sean volunteered to take a group picture with everyone's camera.


After wishing Jess a happy birthday, the five of us that had come that afternoon headed up the mountain to see what we could find.


One person dropped out after we made it to a temple, so there were four of us that made it to the hermitage that was up some rather daunting stone stairs.


At the top at the hermitage was probably the ugliest Buddha statue I've ever seen. It's a shame, too, because it would have made a great picture. As it is, this picture just seems comical to me.


It was starting to get on towards early evening, so the two other girls decided to head back towards the minbak. James wanted to make it to the top before sundown, and I wanted to keep climbing, since we had long left the crowds behind us at the temple. So James, being the mountain goat that he is, loped off towards the summit, and I had a pleasant hour's walk by myself in the woods at dusk.



It started to get dark around 5:30, and the mosquitoes were starting to come out, so I turned around and headed back down the mountain. James eventually caught up with me, and by the time we had gotten back to the minbak 2 hours and about 5 kilometers later, it was pitch black. We met up with the rest of the group and sat around outside the 7/11 talking, drinking, and playing card games. I headed back to the room around 10:30 because we had decided that some of us were going to take the cable car at 6am the next morning to watch the sunrise. I was exhausted from climbing the mountain that evening, and I knew if I didn't go to bed at a reasonable hour I wasn't going to get up in time for the cable car, which was a good half hour walk from our rooms.

We had asked the owner of the minbak earlier that evening to turn the ondol (under-floor heating system) off, since the room was stifling hot, and with 12 people sleeping in the room it wasn't cold enough outside to warrant any heating at all. Unfortunately, the ondol was turned back on around 3am. So with sleeping on a burning hot floor, getting bit by mosquitoes and ants during the night, and being awakened several times by others drunkenly returning to the room at all hours, needless to say I didn't sleep very well.

I woke up at 5am the next morning, and guiltily roused the few people that wanted to catch the cable car at 5:15. I didn't mind as much as I would have if people hadn't confirmed the night before that they wanted to be woken up. I'm not a fast walker, even when I have gotten a good night's sleep, so I headed towards the cable car a little earlier than the other five people who had decided to get up. We made it to the cable car at around 6:15am, and even though we were late, we were the first ones to use the cable car that morning. It was still dark when we got to the top, and we found the observation deck to watch the sunrise.


It wasn't the most amazing sunrise I've ever seen, especially since the actual sun was blocked by one of the mountains, but it was a pleasant morning nonetheless.



After getting a minuscule cup of coffee from a restaurant located on the edge of the mountain and having a rather amusing chat with a group of Korean hikers who were still drunk from soju, we headed back down from the top. The trees below us reminded me of some sort of weird cauliflower garden.


By the time we got back down to the base of the mountain an hour or so later, the line to get on the cable car had about 200 people in it, and probably would have taken at least 45 minutes to get through. We looked around the bottom, and I was fascinated by the persimmon trees, which were prolific and looked like something out of a Dr. Seuss book or a Tim Burton movie.

By the way, if you've never eaten a frozen persimmon, I highly recommend it. It's like a fruit slushy in a peel.


Then the six of us headed back to the minbak, because our train left around noon and we needed to pack up and catch the bus back to the train station. We took the scenic walk on the way back instead of the more crowded and open trail.


We did notice on the way back quite a few Koreans who all seemed to have the same super-expensive camera with giant zoom-lens and tripod who were all taking pictures of the same thing.


But the walk was nice, the colors were more vibrant that morning even though it was overcast, and we just barely made it onto the bus back to the station as it started to rain.