Halong Bay - Day 11 & 12

(1/1/10-1/2/10)

I woke up at 6 am to make sure that no one else would be using the shower, since I was staying in a dorm and I knew several people were going on the same tour I was. I'd forgotten where I put my toiletries in my bag, and I was trying not to wake up anyone in the room, so I ended up having to take a shower without them.

Had my breakfast around 7 after I put my bigger bag into storage. I knew I'd be coming back to the same hostel since the tour I was going on was hosted by them. It was only an overnight trip, so I just had my smaller day pack with a change of clothes and the toiletries that I'd managed to find by the light of day. I checked my email, something I've realized I'm utterly addicted to, and waited until around 8:20 or so when we headed onto the bus, bright neon sombreros in hand (since the dock was crowded with foreigners we'd be able to find our group easily). It took us around 4 hours to get to the harbor. I was hoping by the time we got to the bay the weather would have cleared up a bit, but it was cloudy, overcast, and foggy. Not the best weather for sight-seeing, especially when half the view is reflected on the water.


So some people boarded a small boat to take us to the main ship, but it didn't fit everyone. Instead of the guide staying with the group on the shore, he went with the first group and didn't come back with the boat, either. It was a good thing we had our sombreros, otherwise I don't think the boat would have been able to find the rest of our group.

So we sat on top deck for a while once we'd boarded, where we were told lunch would be in 5 minutes. 20 minutes later we were told it was time to eat. Some people had itineraries that were given to them when they paid for the trip. I'm guessing I never got one because I paid online. It would have been useful, though, because I would have known to pack my long sleeve shirt and jacket. I was shivering just about the whole time on the boat.


After lunch we got assigned to our rooms, and were were told check out time was the next morning at 7:30am. Which seemed a bit strange to me since I was still going to be on board until at least after lunch the next day, and the people that were staying for three days (instead of the two that I'd booked) didn't leave much before lunch. My roommate's name was Sarah, and she seemed nice enough, especially since she offered to share the bottle of vodka that she'd snuck on board (of which I politely declined to partake).


At 3:30 the kayaks were brought to the boat and we followed the guide out to a cave. I didn't take my camera because I didn't think we'd be getting out of the boat, which was soaking wet, and it was sprinkling pretty hard when we boarded. Originally the guide told us to wear flip-flops and shorts because we'd be getting wet. I assumed this would be from the boats and just general being that close to water. I only brought one pair of jeans with me, which I just hoped would dry out by the next day. I was in a kayak with Sarah. I rowed in the back, partially because she'd never been in a canoe before, and partially because I'm a bit of a control freak and unless I know you, I want to be in charge of steering the boat.


We followed the guide as best we could to a cave, where we pulled the kayaks onto a rocky shore that was not at all conducive to flip-flops. I decided to just take my shoes off (I was wearing crocs) and carry them. Then the guide asked if anyone had brought a torch (or flashlight, for us Americans). He kept insisting that he had told us all to bring one, but everyone else insisted that he hadn't. I didn't have one to bring, so it wouldn't have mattered for me, but other people had them in their luggage. I think the next time I go traveling I'll bring one. There's been several times where one would have been helpful, especially during the winter when it gets dark so early.



So after trying to go into the cave and realizing that it was too dark, we headed back to the kayaks. I put my shoes back on about a minute too soon, and I slid on some rocks and cut my left elbow a bit.



So we headed out to where the guide said we could row through the mountains. Across from the cave was a real floating village, with peoples boats tied together. People were cooking on the boats, as well as sleeping. I really wish I'd had my camera at that point - the floating village was the coolest part of the bay. So then we paddled through a hold in the side of a rock into an enclosed lagoon of sorts. We just floated there for a while without the guide saying anything. After about 5 minutes he said we were still missing one boat. But we turned around and headed back to the main ship without waiting for them.



Turns out the two people on the missing boat had been following the wrong kayak group and had gotten lost. By the time we got back to the boat it was getting dark, and once I'd changed and taken pictures it was completely dark. And the two people in the boat were from two different countries, neither of whom spoke the same first language (though they both spoke English reasonably well enough). The lost boat had been asking people for help, but no one seemed interested in helping them. Finally a motorboat offered to bring them back to their boat, but once they got to our boat they wanted 500,000 dong (approx. $26) from each of them for picking them up. Diego refused to pay them on principal, and apparently the girl disappeared. Eventually one of the guys who worked for the hostel talked them down to 100,000 dong each (about $10 total), with the intention of getting his money back from the hostel once he docked.


I went to bed just after dinner that night. I was a bit tired from being up so early, and from the sounds of it, the rest of the night was a bunch of drinking (which wasn't free) and drinking games, so I wasn't that upset about missing it.

I got up at 6am the next day, but it was still cloudy so I couldn't see the sunrise. The people doing the 3-day trip got off the boat around 9:30, and the people that stayed on the island the night before (who had started their three day trip a day before we left) boarded the boat. Some of the guys decided to go swimming, but didn't last long as the water was pretty chilly.



I talked with some of the other people on the boat, walked around taking pictures, and headed to the galley at around 11 for lunch. It took us a few hours to get back to the mainland, and even though it was still overcast, you could at least see farther out than you could the day before.





We took the bus back the hostel, where I arranged for a taxi to take me to the airport that night. I took a shower and changed, and had dinner with one of the guys I had met on the boat. Shortly before I left I got my bag out of storage and checked my email once more. The flight back to Seoul was uneventful, and I got back to my own house around 7:30am on Sunday morning. Which gave me the whole day to upload, organize, and look through the 1054 pictures I took.

And that was the end of my first solo international trip. I enjoyed it so much that I'm planning another solo trip to Ukraine later this year (after which I'll join my friend and go to Prague and Germany). I have a new obsession. I'm no longer addicted to tattoos. I'm addicted to international travel.

Gangwon-do trip Day 1 & 2

Because of Buddha's birthday being Saturday May 2nd, and Children's Day being Tuesday May 5th (note: Children's Day is a national holiday and there is no school. The same cannot be said of Teacher's Day, which is Friday, May18th), Julie decided to give us Monday the 4th off. This gave me a four day weekend, and a perfect excuse to go on a little expedition.

I had originally planned to go with Adventure Korea for a tea festival and hiking since most of my friends weren't going to be in the country. Then James canceled his plan to go to China, and since we know we travel well together, we decided to explore Gangwon-do - the province to the east of Seoul that borders the East Sea.




Since James had Friday off and I didn't, he went to Andong on Friday, and we met up in Sokcho early Saturday afternoon.

The tourist information booth and bus terminal at Sokcho. I love climbing ivy.

After finding a place to stay for the night, we headed to Hwangsongdul Cave.

Waist-high field of flowers on the way to the cave entrance.

Fairy Falls, also on the way to the cave.

A mountain peak on the pleasant but steep climb to the cave

The cave entrance, with a bat themed ticket counter. We didn't see any bats this time.

The cave itself was, well, cavernous. The guidebook mentioned that it was the largest limestone cave in Asia, and that some places were cathedral sized 'rooms'. James and I had a rather long discussion on whether or not it was actually cathedral-sized or not. Seeing as how I've never been to Europe and seen a 'real' cathedral, I think he may have won. (He said it was a small cathedral at best.) Regardless, it was the exact opposite of the last cave I went to, which was small and slightly claustrophobic. There was also a large underground river running through it, so the sound of running water (which I love) was ever-present.

A view down to the walkway and underground river

Thank you Korea. I couldn't have lived my life happily before this.

It looks like an egg, don't you think?

Weird rock formations inside the cave

A rather out-of-place-looking wooden tepee thing outside the cave that had a waterfall that looked like the one from Kill Bill

We got back to Sokcho, and spent the evening wandering around the town. The next morning we decided that we would head to the Penis Park first since it was an hour away. The hotel let us check out but keep our bags in the office, and we went to go catch a bus. Now, for the sake of my possibly younger audience, I have not included any of the pictures of this rather eclectic, and slightly shocking park. I have, however, included pictures of the scenery of the area, as the views of the East Sea from the top of the park, as well as at the bottom of it, were amazingly beautiful.

From the top of the park looking out to the East Sea below

One of the statues overlooking the sea

I could have spent all day clamoring over those rocks.

I think this is wisteria that was hanging on a trellis at the top part of the park

This is one of my favorite pictures, even though it's slightly crooked.

The water was so beautiful. I shouldn't have been surprised at the number of kids we saw at the park.

The park only took about an hour, so we decided to head over to see the Unification Park, which had a North Korean submarine that had crash-landed off the coast of South Korea in 1996, as well as a US battleship that had been donated to South Korea.

Battle stations ready!

It was a big boat.

My fiercest attack face on a 40mm anti-aircraft gun.

James' face was better.

The inside of this was so small. I was bent over the whole time. I can't believe that 26 people were in here!

We went back to the hotel to grab our stuff, then we took a train to Jeongdongjin, which is famous for having a station right on the beach. It was the first time I've been in a real train (that wasn't a subway). I was rather excited.

The next cabin up on the train

A view from the train of the beach. Notice the barbed wire and the lights. It's to deter the North Koreans from trying to land.

The first train I ever rode at Jeongdongjin station. Korea has been full of firsts!

Why yes, that is a giant cruise ship sitting on a cliff in the background. How astute of you to notice.

Jeongdongjin station was amazing, as it was right on the beach (even closer that A1A is in Ormond). James gave me a hard time about this, but I was not happy with the set up of the station. You have to cross the tracks to get onto the train, or to get to the rest of the town from the station. Can you imagine having to cross train tracks in the States? Someone stupid would get run over by the train and sue the company. There's no railroad crossing signs, or stop signs or anything. I guess they assume that you should be smart enough to see and hear the train coming, and if you're not then you deserve to get run over.

I must take after my mother. Doesn't that just look dangerous to you?

After getting our hotel situated for the night (since Jeongdongjin is famous for sunrises, we decided to stay the night instead of moving on so we could see it), we began to wander around the beach and the town.

A stream emptying out into the sea

Empty soju bottles from the night before

There were tons of kids here. It looked like a great place to spend a family weekend.

A giant hourglass. Apparently a famous Korean tv drama called Hourglass was partially filmed here. I have no idea how often it turns.

The beach at twilight

I love the coastline in Korea - so beautiful!

One of the more touristy things in Jeongdongjin is the giant cruise ship that's comfortably nestled on the top of a cliff at the edge of town. James and I climed the steep entranceway to the ship, but it's 5,000 won to just get onto the grounds, not even get into the ship (which is a hotel/ resort), and we didn't feel like paying for a view, so we left.

Don't ask.

A boat yard that we clamored around until an ajushi yelled at us to leave.

James had never lit a firecracker, and since they're legal (!) and popular on the beaches, we each got one and lit them.