This is Halloween, this is Halloween

I feel like I had two Halloweens this year - one with my kids, and one with my friends.

At school on Friday, we had activities planned for the afternoon, and the morning was standard lessons. As I only get two breaks per day, and on Friday they're the last two periods, I wasn't happy about the scheduling (which meant I was to teach all day with no break), but I figured for one day I could grin and bear it.

I enjoy decorating my classroom, and I may have gone a little overboard with the Halloween decorations. I had the Korean teachers from other rooms asking me to stop, because they felt they had to decorate as much as I was and they wanted to go home. I did end up slowing down a bit, but I still carved the best pumpkin in the school. :)



All of my kids dressed up, and though I had two Optimus Primes, I was still highly impressed with how they all turned out.

I wasn't the only teacher that dressed up, either. Some of the Korean teachers did small things (like my co-teacher wore an orange Casper shirt that my mom sent me), but for the most part the foreign teachers went all out. My personal favorite was the ajuma in the front center.


In the afternoon, the kids rotated to other 7-year-old classes to do different activities, similar to what we did for International Costume Day. My activities were making popcorn monster hands and marshmallow ghosts. Now, this would be a simple thing to do in America. But wondering why you can't find candy corn or jumbo white marshmallows in Korea in the fall is like wondering why you can't find Pepero in America in November.



Thankfully I have a forward-thinking mother who shipped me a bag of candy corn that arrived before the 30th, so the monster hands were saved (though I did have to tell the materials person that no, three individual bags of popcorn would not be enough for 35 kids to fill a plastic glove and could I please have some more before 1pm? Thanks so much...). I was not so lucky when it came to the marshmallows, however. I was given my materials on Thursday (after submitting my list two weeks earlier with specific instructions on EXACTLY what I needed, and how many per child I would need, and the number of children that would be participating). So instead of using these for ghostie heads:

(which btw makes for minutes of fun ages 8-80), my kids were stuck with rather strange ghostie faces made from this:


But, we made do with what we had, and the kids - after convincing them that the food dye was, in fact, food dye and not poisonous coloring that would make them sick and die- made some rather interesting ghosts. And then promptly ate them, since they don't travel well.


Clean, rinse, repeat. I then proceeded to do the same two activities with the other two seven-year-old classes, until the day was over. I have no qualms about making kids clean up after themselves (Rule number three out of three in Sapphire Class?: "Leave things better than the way you found them."), so before moving on to the next activity, kids had to make sure that all remnants of the previous activity had been spirited away into the garbage.

I then got about half an hour after the kids left to chill out from the day before our weekly meeting at 4pm. This was the first meeting where our new Vice Principal ran the meeting (the old one wasn't that great at the job, didn't know how to work with foreigners, and only lasted about 2 months). It was blessedly short, sweet, informative, and to-the-point. After which we got the go-ahead to go home early! So after removing all vestiges of the holiday from my room (I wasn't going to do it Monday morning), I headed home to change.

A friend of mine had a birthday party in Itaewon at a lovely Moroccan restaurant. The company and the food was good, but at $20 a plate for buffet (of which I only partook in two small plates), it was a bit pricey. Afterwards, I went out dancing with some friends, and then headed back home to get some sleep to prepare for Saturday.

Once I had ordered my zombie contacts, and knew I would get them in time for Halloween, I told James what I was going to dress up as. He's not the most competent when it comes to what he calls fancy dress (we Americans call it dressing up or costumes), so he asked me if I would make him a zombie as well and of course I agreed. About three days before Halloween, he told me that his girlfriend and her friend's plans had fallen through for ABBA themed costumes, and would I mind terribly doing their makeup as well? I thought it would be fun, though I had JUST managed to find enough makeup for myself and James. I told him that if they bought more makeup, I'd be happy to help. So on Saturday I woke up, ripped up some already dubious clothes of mine, and proceeded to apply my own zombie makeup. This was partly to reduce the time it would take to do everyone else's makeup, and partly to practice in private, since I hadn't done it in two years.


I then headed to Itaewon, to infect three other people. It was raining, so my umbrella effectively hid my costume and makeup on my walk to the subway. I was enjoying startling the random person by lifting the umbrella from time to time. Once inside the subway, I got the random sideways glance, or semi-aborted scream from passers-by, but for the most part people didn't pay me any mind. I did get some opened-eyes and smiles from people as I was waiting for the train to open its' doors and looking through the window at the people waiting to get out. I stepped onto the train, and stood behind someone who was holding on to the handle hanging from the ceiling and facing away from me, towards the windows and the row of seats. My transfer was about 5 stops away, and nothing of note happened until about the fourth stop. The girl in front of me, who apparently had been blissfully unaware of my presence happened to turn around. She promptly screamed, let go of the handle, and ran off into the crowded subway car to get away from me. I spent the next two stops trying desperately not to laugh, smile, or look around.

I made it to the apartment without much more ado, where James, Juliet, Rob (Juliet's best friend and roommate), and Nonkuli (another friend of Juliet's) were already there. We waited until Claire arrived, and then I started doing makeup for Juliet, James, and Claire.



After about the third layer of makeup, Nonkuli and Rob decided that it looked like too much fun, so I made three zombies, and then two more. The result was an awesome family of zombies.


Nonkuli, Juliet and I all headed down the street to catch a cab, and Juliet was enjoying herself by scaring passing ajumas and random strangers. One of them, a Korean, stopped and asked if she could take our picture. She then called her friends over and had our picture taken with them. We started talking to them, and they asked who did our makeup, at which point Juliet said that I had done it. The Koreans were all impressed, which wouldn't have been as cool if we hadn't found out that they do professional body painting, and were heading to a body art convention in Austria. I got the card of the girl who took the picture and e-mailed her later in the week. I'm still waiting for the pictures (apparently they're too big to email), but I'm looking forward to seeing them, and to possibly working with them in the future!

The rest of the night was spent wandering around Seoul with friends and scaring people. We gained semi-celebrity status in Haebangcheon, when we actually got a round of applause when we walked in the door of a bar.


I left partway through the night to go to a gothic party with Nonkuli, where I lost my wallet and never got it back. Made for a rather annoying, and cashless, rest of the evening, but I managed. I've been slowly working at getting all my cards back, though the 6 coffee cards I had from different cafes with stamps and points on them are rather irreplaceable....

Chuseok, round 2, Part 2

So because we had a three day weekend, plans were to head out of Seoul. Originally I'd wanted to go down to Busan for a river lantern festival, but most festivals this year have been canceled due to an over-reactive government, and sadly the lantern festival was one of the victims. The other issue was traffic and travelling. I'd also thought about doing a quick Japan trip, but all flights to Japan were overly expensive, and all the flights to Jeju-do (Korea's version of Hawaii) had been booked months in advance. The traffic leaving Seoul the weekend of Chuseok is horrendous (I experienced it first hand last year when I drove to Pyongtaek with my co-teacher - what should have taken about 45 minutes actually took about 5.5 hours.) It's like Thanksgiving traffic on steroids. So - any travel using the road system was out, and all flights were gone. The KTX train was booked as well, which left us with the subway system and...boats! So, that's exactly what we did.

Thanks to the resourcefulness of some of James' friends, we found a lovely little island off the west coast of Incheon (Seoul's main airport). Originally we'd though about Moui-do or Yeongheung-do, but were somehow re-routed to Ijak-do (do - pronounced 'doh' - is Korean for island). Rather than being a problem, this turned out to be perfect.


Once we got to the Incheon area, we had to take a ferry to the island. There were only two ferries a day, one at 9am and one at 2pm. Because I live about a 2 hour subway ride from the ferry, I decided to take the 2pm ferry on Friday. James, Kathryn, Gary, and Juliet all caught the same one. There were about 8 other people that went as well, but they stayed in Incheon on Thursday night, and caught the first ferry out on Friday morning.

Gary, Juliet, Jack (the dog), James, and Kathryn in front of the Rainbow - our ferry to Ijak-do

The ferry ride was interesting in itself. I'd only been on a ferry once before with Steph, but it was more for sightseeing than for transportation. I'm not sure what the ferry is like when the seas get rough, but at one point while sitting on the main level, you would see only the sky, and then only the sea out the window - Kathryn was convinced we were going to pitch over. I actually had an interesting conversation with her about how I've become so nonchalant about so many things. I've heard people say numerous times that I nothing seems to upset me, and I've said to more than one person that I can't remember the last time I was offended. I don't worry that often, and very little seems to phase me, though I certainly get excited about traveling and seeing new places. I'm not sure if it's just the fact that I've been through experiences in my life at a young age that most people don't experience till they're older, or not at all (like divorce or moving to another country), or if it's just that I'm finally growing up.


Anyway, the views were amazing, and I realized that I felt much better when I was on the top deck. I think the combination of the rather brisk breeze and that I could see the entire landscape instead of an alternating sky/water window made for a happier stomach. I convinced the others that the upper deck was more gastronomically friendly, so we spent the last part of the ride on the top deck.


We expected the ride to last for about 2 hours, but it was closer to 2.5, and we were starting to get a bit anxious. The ferry stopped at three ports, and we wanted to make sure we got off in the right place. We made it off the boat just fine, and were told by Jess, who was already at the pension, that a Korean man in a minivan and a bluish-greenish hanbok would pick us up at the port. Well, we disembarked with about half the other people on board, and after about 7 minutes were the only remaining people within sight. Aside from the building near the ferry dock, there was nothing to indicate any other life, or even which direction to take the road in order to find civilization. We waited for about 10 minutes for something - anything to happen. Finally a black minivan drove up with a Korean inside, asking if we were friends of Jess' in broken English. So we loaded up the van and drove about 10 minutes up some really steep roads to a pension near a beach.

I can't read all of it, but the left side says "Stress NO!!"

We unloaded at the top of a hill, where we could barely see a beach down below. After sorting out the accommodations (the five of us were to share a 'big' room - which really only slept 3-4 of us comfortably), we headed down to the beach.




The only people there were friends of ours. There was another group of foreigners staying at our pension, but they were all up in the rooms. Aside from them and the people that ran the pension, we were the only ones in sight. The beach was beautiful, and we spent the rest of the afternoon swimming resting on the sand, playing soccer, and just generally enjoying the restfulness of it all.

One of the people brought his own tent so he wouldn't have to pay for the pension.

We wanted to see the sunset, so we hiked up, and then down the road we came in on, to get past the mountain that was blocking the view of the setting sun.

Sitting on the road with everyone, watching the sun set.

It was beautiful.

We found a lovely spot on the beach to watch the sunset, and camped out there for about 20 minutes and watched it sink down behind the water.

Following in the footsteps of others

There were only 4 other people on the beach besides us.

After getting back to the pension, we ordered dinner from the restaurant - which was more like a kitchen near the beach, and enjoyed the side dishes but practically gagged on the main dish, which had a nice sauce flavor but tasted like it was made from ground up cartilage and low-grade meat. After dinner and several drinks, we decided to join the other foreigners who had built a lovely bonfire on the beach.


The rest of the weekend was spent hanging around the beach; swimming, drinking, eating, relaxing, and just generally enjoying each others' company and the peaceful surroundings.

Eating pasta for lunch on Saturday

The tide coming in

Kathryn and Gary walking along the beach

Making squishy faces from a persimmon

At low tide on Sunday we could see some sort of fishing apparatus on the beach that had been previously covered up by the water, so I went out to get a better look at it.


I'm still not sure exactly what it did, but it was certainly interesting.





And then, sadly, it was time to head back home. So being slightly sunburned, and all covered in sand, we piled into the back of a truck and headed to the ferry dock to go back home.

Not sure how I managed it, but this picture makes me dizzy.

Don't worry, mom, we were perfectly safe in the back of an open truck with no seat belts.

We made it back to Incheon, and took the subway to Itaewon. Almost everyone I was with also had Monday off, but I had to work. So after a lovely dinner at a Thai restaurant (I think it's the first time I've ever said "wow" after tasting something and really meant it), I headed home.

Tokyo! Part 1 (well overdue)

We flew out of Gimpo airport early Saturday afternoon, 12/27. Apparently if you fly into Haneda airport in Tokyo from Korea, you have to leave from Gimpo, and if you fly into Narita Airport (the larger of the two Japanese airports), you leave from Incheon (the larger of the two Korean airports). When we arrived at the airport, we decided to go through security first, and then find some breakfast. It's a good thing we did, because Kathryn hadn't updated her visa, and as we were going through immigration (which is always a slightly harrowing affair), she was asked to go purchase a single entry pass so she could leave and come back. Dayna and I didn't know this until after she came back from a room with one door and no windows, so we were very glad it was something a little bit of won was able to take care of.

The flight itself was uneventful - we had a nice lunch served on the 90 minute flight, and landed in Haneda. We had decided not to check our bags so that we wouldn't have to wait for them at the baggage claim, so we headed to immigration, and then to purchase our train tickets. Our plan was to spend the night in Tokyo, and then leave the next day for Kyoto, where we had booked a hostel for two nights. We had spent quite a bit of time researching train tickets, and had found a cheaper alternative to the Shinkansen train - the bullet train that connects most of the country. The Shinkansen would have cost us about 28,000 yen each (about $280), while the train tickets we purchased were only 23,000 yen for all three of us (about $77). After getting our tickets, we got a map of the Tokyo subway (SO confusing!), and directions on how to get to our hostel in Asakusa.

While looking at the rather daunting ticket machine, a man came up to us and asked, in English, if we needed help. We gladly told him yes, and he helped us buy our tickets, and even made sure we got on the right train. The metro in Tokyo is similar to the one in Seoul, but slightly smaller, and much quieter.

Dayna and her luggage inside a Tokyo metro car

It's illegal to talk on your cellphone on the metro, and there are signs everywhere reminding you to turn off your cell phone (not even just silence it!). It's very clean, and there are signs in the station to remind you not to drink and ride:

A polite sign reminding you to "please do it at home". Get drunk and pass out, that is.

We arrived in the early evening, and were thrilled with what we saw as soon as we got off the subway. The metro entrances are often well hidden in Tokyo, and are sometimes under buildings or in side streets, and not marked with large signs announcing their presence. The stop in Asakusa could easily be mistaken for the entrance to the mechanical room of a building, and it dumped us out onto a side street in what is considered "Old Tokyo", or Shitamachi.

We were greeted within 5 minutes by a group of jinricksha drivers who wanted to take us on a riding tour of Asakusa for only 2,000 yen for 10 minutes. We politely declined, since we wanted to check into our hostel, and $20 is a bit much for ten minutes (and the rickshas only take 2 and there were 3 of us).

Jinrickshas near our hostel.

We had very detailed directions to the hostel, and were amazed by the buildings and people that we saw as we walked.

Kathryn and Dayna in front of the Kaminarimon in Asakusa

We headed towards the Senso-ji, which is a temple that, according to legend, houses an image of the Buddhist goddess of mercy - Kannon. There was a large red gate that we had to walk by called the Kaminarimon, or Thunder Gate, next to a 5 story pagoda that I fell in love with. Past the gate was a small garden, with statues, a koi pond, and small shrine-like structures. Our directions then took us through a market street called Nakamise-dori, with just about every type of Japanese souvenir imaginable.

Nakamise-dori

We got slightly lost when we were looking for the amusement park, since it was not what we would have considered the western version of such things. But our timing was perfect, because when we finally found it and were walking by, there was a ninja street show being performed that looked like something out of an anime cartoon. We watched for a few minutes (not understanding any of what they were saying of course), before continuing towards our hostel.

Everybody was ninja fighting!

The people at our hostel were very nice, and gave us our sheets and instructions on how to get to the room. This was the first hostel I've ever been in. The costs are kept down because many of the conveniences of a standard hotel are absent, such as your bed being made for you, a private bathroom, or even private rooms. We happened to have a 4 bed room to ourselves for the night.

Yay bunk beds! Kathryn was more happy about it than she looks.

The beds were very comfortable, the blankets warm, and the room small but serviceable. There was a kitchen and a common room on the main floor, and computers you could use for a fee. We were starving, so after stashing our stuff in the room, we headed out for something to eat.

Wandering around looking for food made me feel like I had when I first arrived in Korea. I had no idea how to read the writing on the menus posted outside, and unless there was a picture of each item, we passed by with hardly a second glance. We probably roamed around for about 20 minutes before finally finding a place that we thought we could order from. It was a small Indian restaurant, and the one man working there spoke a little English. He took our drinks, made our meal, and even consented to having his picture taken.

Kathryn's looking at our Japan book, and Dayna's just looking strange at dinner.

My yummy fried rice.

After dinner, we had planned on going back to the Nakamise-dori to do a bit of window shopping, but it had closed down for the night. We did get to see quite a few traditional Japanese paintings on the metal doors that were covering all the shops.

Geisha painting in Nakamise-dori

We were also pleasantly surprised by how well lit the Senso-ji was lit up at night, and we took tons of pictures that look just like the ones from our travel guide. (By the way, if you ever travel to another country, I highly recommend using a Lonely Planet book. I've used one for almost everywhere I've gone in Korea. They're helpful, accurate, easy to follow, and they're meant for the single traveller on a budget, but mention family outings and higher priced items, too.)

Senso-ji area at night

We headed back to our hostel around 9 or 10, and noticed the rather odd and brightly painted graffiti on the walls near where we were staying.

Dayna and I in front of the colorful paintings by our hostel

There were also tons of bikes lined up against the walls. We couldn't figure out if they were rented, or for personal use, or community bikes, but the all looked the same and there was a security man who was policing the area and making sure they were all lined up just-so.

A bunch of bikes lined up, with our hostel in the background

But as we were heading back towards our hostel, we met a semi-creepy man, who decided to talk to us. We tried to keep walking, and kept our answers brief, if we answered at all. He asked us where we were staying, and Kathryn answered "we're not sure", even though we were a stone's throw from the entrance of our hostel. He mentioned he was staying there (oops!), and we just sort of nodded and kept walking. Which is how we came across the seediest, gaudiest, coolest looking "love motel" I've ever seen. The prices were listed outside by the hour, or by the night.

Askakusa's version of a love motel

After a sufficient time gawking at the hotel (and my semi-brave trek down the steps to see inside, only to be frightened away by an automated talking door and a couple coming out of the elevator), we headed back in for the night, easily avoiding our creepy neighbor.

The next morning we woke up leisurely around 8am, and checked out of the hostel. They were kind enough to let us check out, and then store our bags downstairs while we wandered around Asakusa. We planned on seeing a bit of the area, and then heading to Kyoto, where we had booked two nights at a hostel. We explored the area around Senso-ji for about an hour.

A temple roof and Buddhist statue near Senso-ji

Smoking is not allowed while you're walking on the street. You have to stand by one of these bins, and put your cigarette but inside when you're done. Everyone that we saw seemed to abide by these:

Smoking bins

We saw a tourist information center, so we headed inside to find out where we could catch the train we had tickets for to get to Kyoto. After a short wait, we spoke to the man and woman behind the counter, who laughed because apparently someone had been in earlier with the same tickets we had with the same question, and they weren't able to find any information for them. They suggested we try a travel agent down the street. The travel agent was closed, so we headed back to the tourist center. After a much longer wait, we were becoming a bit impatient with the long-winded people in front of us and the lack of staff (where had the nice man gone?). When it was finally our turn again, we convinced the woman to let us use her computer to find the exact name of the train we were trying to find. Well, it turns out that the tickets we had were for a train that takes 9 hours to get from Tokyo to Kyoto. Since we were only going to be there two days, this pretty much made the tickets worthless to us - why travel somewhere for 18 hours when you're going to be there less than 48 hours?

I felt really bad about this, because the trains had been my responsibility to research and book, and I had found this "great deal", but had apparently missed the whole 9 hour part (instead of the two hours that the Shinkansen train takes). Kathryn had booked our first hostel, and Dayna had booked the hostels in Kyoto. I suppose if I had known before hand our trip wouldn't have been much different than it turned out to be because the Shinkansen was so far out of our budget range that we would have just decided ahead of time to stay in Tokyo. I confirmed online that we would be able to get a refund on the tickets, so long as they weren't used, and we thanked the woman for letting us use her computer and then left.

So we headed back to the hostel with the small hope of finding an open room there, but as we expected they were fully booked for the night. We asked to be put on the waiting list, and then Kathryn and I started looking through the Japan book for something to do that day in the area while Dayna made a call to our hostel that we had planned on staying in on our last night. Luckily they had a few rooms available, so we picked up our luggage from downstairs, took our names off the waiting list, and headed out to the maze known as the Tokyo subway.