Tokyo! Part 1 (well overdue)

We flew out of Gimpo airport early Saturday afternoon, 12/27. Apparently if you fly into Haneda airport in Tokyo from Korea, you have to leave from Gimpo, and if you fly into Narita Airport (the larger of the two Japanese airports), you leave from Incheon (the larger of the two Korean airports). When we arrived at the airport, we decided to go through security first, and then find some breakfast. It's a good thing we did, because Kathryn hadn't updated her visa, and as we were going through immigration (which is always a slightly harrowing affair), she was asked to go purchase a single entry pass so she could leave and come back. Dayna and I didn't know this until after she came back from a room with one door and no windows, so we were very glad it was something a little bit of won was able to take care of.

The flight itself was uneventful - we had a nice lunch served on the 90 minute flight, and landed in Haneda. We had decided not to check our bags so that we wouldn't have to wait for them at the baggage claim, so we headed to immigration, and then to purchase our train tickets. Our plan was to spend the night in Tokyo, and then leave the next day for Kyoto, where we had booked a hostel for two nights. We had spent quite a bit of time researching train tickets, and had found a cheaper alternative to the Shinkansen train - the bullet train that connects most of the country. The Shinkansen would have cost us about 28,000 yen each (about $280), while the train tickets we purchased were only 23,000 yen for all three of us (about $77). After getting our tickets, we got a map of the Tokyo subway (SO confusing!), and directions on how to get to our hostel in Asakusa.

While looking at the rather daunting ticket machine, a man came up to us and asked, in English, if we needed help. We gladly told him yes, and he helped us buy our tickets, and even made sure we got on the right train. The metro in Tokyo is similar to the one in Seoul, but slightly smaller, and much quieter.

Dayna and her luggage inside a Tokyo metro car

It's illegal to talk on your cellphone on the metro, and there are signs everywhere reminding you to turn off your cell phone (not even just silence it!). It's very clean, and there are signs in the station to remind you not to drink and ride:

A polite sign reminding you to "please do it at home". Get drunk and pass out, that is.

We arrived in the early evening, and were thrilled with what we saw as soon as we got off the subway. The metro entrances are often well hidden in Tokyo, and are sometimes under buildings or in side streets, and not marked with large signs announcing their presence. The stop in Asakusa could easily be mistaken for the entrance to the mechanical room of a building, and it dumped us out onto a side street in what is considered "Old Tokyo", or Shitamachi.

We were greeted within 5 minutes by a group of jinricksha drivers who wanted to take us on a riding tour of Asakusa for only 2,000 yen for 10 minutes. We politely declined, since we wanted to check into our hostel, and $20 is a bit much for ten minutes (and the rickshas only take 2 and there were 3 of us).

Jinrickshas near our hostel.

We had very detailed directions to the hostel, and were amazed by the buildings and people that we saw as we walked.

Kathryn and Dayna in front of the Kaminarimon in Asakusa

We headed towards the Senso-ji, which is a temple that, according to legend, houses an image of the Buddhist goddess of mercy - Kannon. There was a large red gate that we had to walk by called the Kaminarimon, or Thunder Gate, next to a 5 story pagoda that I fell in love with. Past the gate was a small garden, with statues, a koi pond, and small shrine-like structures. Our directions then took us through a market street called Nakamise-dori, with just about every type of Japanese souvenir imaginable.

Nakamise-dori

We got slightly lost when we were looking for the amusement park, since it was not what we would have considered the western version of such things. But our timing was perfect, because when we finally found it and were walking by, there was a ninja street show being performed that looked like something out of an anime cartoon. We watched for a few minutes (not understanding any of what they were saying of course), before continuing towards our hostel.

Everybody was ninja fighting!

The people at our hostel were very nice, and gave us our sheets and instructions on how to get to the room. This was the first hostel I've ever been in. The costs are kept down because many of the conveniences of a standard hotel are absent, such as your bed being made for you, a private bathroom, or even private rooms. We happened to have a 4 bed room to ourselves for the night.

Yay bunk beds! Kathryn was more happy about it than she looks.

The beds were very comfortable, the blankets warm, and the room small but serviceable. There was a kitchen and a common room on the main floor, and computers you could use for a fee. We were starving, so after stashing our stuff in the room, we headed out for something to eat.

Wandering around looking for food made me feel like I had when I first arrived in Korea. I had no idea how to read the writing on the menus posted outside, and unless there was a picture of each item, we passed by with hardly a second glance. We probably roamed around for about 20 minutes before finally finding a place that we thought we could order from. It was a small Indian restaurant, and the one man working there spoke a little English. He took our drinks, made our meal, and even consented to having his picture taken.

Kathryn's looking at our Japan book, and Dayna's just looking strange at dinner.

My yummy fried rice.

After dinner, we had planned on going back to the Nakamise-dori to do a bit of window shopping, but it had closed down for the night. We did get to see quite a few traditional Japanese paintings on the metal doors that were covering all the shops.

Geisha painting in Nakamise-dori

We were also pleasantly surprised by how well lit the Senso-ji was lit up at night, and we took tons of pictures that look just like the ones from our travel guide. (By the way, if you ever travel to another country, I highly recommend using a Lonely Planet book. I've used one for almost everywhere I've gone in Korea. They're helpful, accurate, easy to follow, and they're meant for the single traveller on a budget, but mention family outings and higher priced items, too.)

Senso-ji area at night

We headed back to our hostel around 9 or 10, and noticed the rather odd and brightly painted graffiti on the walls near where we were staying.

Dayna and I in front of the colorful paintings by our hostel

There were also tons of bikes lined up against the walls. We couldn't figure out if they were rented, or for personal use, or community bikes, but the all looked the same and there was a security man who was policing the area and making sure they were all lined up just-so.

A bunch of bikes lined up, with our hostel in the background

But as we were heading back towards our hostel, we met a semi-creepy man, who decided to talk to us. We tried to keep walking, and kept our answers brief, if we answered at all. He asked us where we were staying, and Kathryn answered "we're not sure", even though we were a stone's throw from the entrance of our hostel. He mentioned he was staying there (oops!), and we just sort of nodded and kept walking. Which is how we came across the seediest, gaudiest, coolest looking "love motel" I've ever seen. The prices were listed outside by the hour, or by the night.

Askakusa's version of a love motel

After a sufficient time gawking at the hotel (and my semi-brave trek down the steps to see inside, only to be frightened away by an automated talking door and a couple coming out of the elevator), we headed back in for the night, easily avoiding our creepy neighbor.

The next morning we woke up leisurely around 8am, and checked out of the hostel. They were kind enough to let us check out, and then store our bags downstairs while we wandered around Asakusa. We planned on seeing a bit of the area, and then heading to Kyoto, where we had booked two nights at a hostel. We explored the area around Senso-ji for about an hour.

A temple roof and Buddhist statue near Senso-ji

Smoking is not allowed while you're walking on the street. You have to stand by one of these bins, and put your cigarette but inside when you're done. Everyone that we saw seemed to abide by these:

Smoking bins

We saw a tourist information center, so we headed inside to find out where we could catch the train we had tickets for to get to Kyoto. After a short wait, we spoke to the man and woman behind the counter, who laughed because apparently someone had been in earlier with the same tickets we had with the same question, and they weren't able to find any information for them. They suggested we try a travel agent down the street. The travel agent was closed, so we headed back to the tourist center. After a much longer wait, we were becoming a bit impatient with the long-winded people in front of us and the lack of staff (where had the nice man gone?). When it was finally our turn again, we convinced the woman to let us use her computer to find the exact name of the train we were trying to find. Well, it turns out that the tickets we had were for a train that takes 9 hours to get from Tokyo to Kyoto. Since we were only going to be there two days, this pretty much made the tickets worthless to us - why travel somewhere for 18 hours when you're going to be there less than 48 hours?

I felt really bad about this, because the trains had been my responsibility to research and book, and I had found this "great deal", but had apparently missed the whole 9 hour part (instead of the two hours that the Shinkansen train takes). Kathryn had booked our first hostel, and Dayna had booked the hostels in Kyoto. I suppose if I had known before hand our trip wouldn't have been much different than it turned out to be because the Shinkansen was so far out of our budget range that we would have just decided ahead of time to stay in Tokyo. I confirmed online that we would be able to get a refund on the tickets, so long as they weren't used, and we thanked the woman for letting us use her computer and then left.

So we headed back to the hostel with the small hope of finding an open room there, but as we expected they were fully booked for the night. We asked to be put on the waiting list, and then Kathryn and I started looking through the Japan book for something to do that day in the area while Dayna made a call to our hostel that we had planned on staying in on our last night. Luckily they had a few rooms available, so we picked up our luggage from downstairs, took our names off the waiting list, and headed out to the maze known as the Tokyo subway.

Hahoe and Andong

Last weekend I got to travel by myself for the first time to Andong, a city in the east central part of Korea. It's famous for the Hahoe (pronounced Ha-hweh) folk village and mask dance. I had planned on leaving Friday night on the last bus there (11pm), but when I got to the bus depot, there were no more seats to Andong, so I got the first bus out the next morning at 6am (managing to do this, by the way, when the bus clerk didn't speak any English). I managed to find a hotel to stay in near the bus depot, and caught the bus on Saturday morning no problem. The trip was only 3 hours, so I got into downtown Andong rather early. I found a cheap hotel to stay in near the bus terminal first, and unloaded my overnight bag. Then I went back to the bus depot to get my ticket for the bus on Sunday, just to make sure I didn't have the same problem again.

I explored a little of downtown Andong and found a tourist information booth, which had the time schedule for the bus to the local tourist destinations, of which there were quite a few. The first place I went, and my main reason for going, was the Hahoe Folk Village ( 하회마을).

Hahoe (pronounced Ha-hweah) is an ancient village that has never been attacked because of it's unique location - it is surrounded by a river on three sides and mountains on the fourth. The buildings are a mix of thatched servants quarters




and upper class homes.


It's beautifully tranquil, and the mountains and homes together makes you feel like you've been transported back in time (if you ignore the odd satellite dish attached to the thatching). I wandered around the village for a few hours, looking at the different architectural styles of the houses, and going to the different national treasure sites (I believe this village houses about 19 of them). National treasures here are mostly buildings owned and lived in by historical Korean officials and heroes.

In my wanderings I came across a small playground, where kids were playing on what we would call a see-saw, except instead of sitting on it, they stand and try to get each other to jump higher, almost like a trampoline.



This village is particularly known for the Hahoe Mask Dance, which is an ancient traditional dance with a lot of cultural significance that has been lost in the touristization (is that a real word?) of it.




I missed the first part of the dance because I didn't know where it was being held, but I got to see most of the first three acts. I got a short video of it that I'll try to upload later (since this post is already a week later than I would have liked).

I headed back into town, intending to visit some of the other places in the area, but I was too tired. So I grabbed dinner at the Mr. Pizza, and wandered around the downtown area. I found a small park with some of the old-style pagodas that were lit up.


I went back the next morning to visit the cliff across the river from the village to get a better view of it,


and got to see a few of the people that lived there actually working on making the masks



as well as other ancient style crafts like calligraphy.


After leaving the village again, I came back to the hotel and got my bags, ready to head home. I decided to stop at a museum I had seen the night before, which was interesting in that it didn't have any physical artifacts, but had interactive videos, games, sounds, etc, all linked to the history and traditions of Andong. It was a very restful and enjoyable weekend, especially since I was alone and was able to do what I wanted, when and where I wanted to.

Chuseok

I just found out that we have an extra day off for Chuseok (the Korean version of Thanksgiving). This Friday is a half day for Kindergarten, and then we have Monday and Tuesday off. I was going to stay in Seoul for the weekend and just wander for a few days, since the traffic's going to be really bad on Monday, but since we have an extra day, I'm trying to decide if I should go somewhere further away. I shall have to consult my travel book this weekend.

On a side note, my Cherry class impressed me this morning with their logic skills, though they were a bit misguided. Irene saw my tongue ring, and asked "What's this?", pointing to her tongue and then to me. So I stuck out my tongue. She then said "Circle. Breanna teacher have circle here. Lisa teacher have circle here. So, English teacher have circle here. Ok?" I knew Lisa, the teacher I replaced, had a tongue piercing and a large tattoo as well, but this was an impressive bit of logic for a 4 year old. "Both my English teachers have a circle on their tongue, so all English teachers must have one too. " Not bad. :)